In the Golan Heights, on the border between Israel and Syria November 9, 2009
Posted by Jeff Block in Bible Stories, Military, News, Politics and Culture, Travel.Tags: Damascus, Golan Heights, Image of the US Overseas, Israel, Megiddo, Richard Nixon, Syria, The Bible, United Nations
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We took a short detour on our way back to the Sea of Galilee (where we’d spend the rest of the day) to get a better view of the Golan Heights and the Syrian border. We stopped at a produce stand, where I purchased some local Olive Oil (which I hope holds up to the pressures of the cargo hold of a 777 during a transatlantic flight). While there, our tour guide gave us all manner of details about the Six Days war in 1967 and the general conflict that Israel has experienced with it’s neighbors to the north and east (Lebanon and Syria) over the years.
We learned about the conflict that had occurred in 1973 between Israel and Syria. The United Nations, assisted by the Nixon white house (Henry Kissinger), brokered a cease fire agreement. The deal was that Israel and Syria would symmetrically deploy troops and tanks to either side of the border the same distance apart. The UN then placed listening stations along the border on each side and built an administrative facility in one of the small valleys near the border in the Golan Heights, a mile or so off the main road that connects the junction in the Europe-Africa Intercontinental Bridge (also called the Via Mares, or “the Way of the Sea”) at Tel Megiddo and Damascus, capital of Syria. It’s amazing to see how close all these places are to each other and how strategic the various land positions and resources are. When you add the religious tensions, no wonder there is so much conflict in this region!
In addition to the UN listening posts, we also saw several military bases and other installations both where we were on the Israeli side and as we looked out across the valley at the Syrian side. Our tour guide told a really interesting story about an Israeli spy who had infiltrated the ranks of the Syrians before the 1973 conflict. Evidently the Syrians tried to copy a lot of things the Israeli’s do, and this spy convinced their military leadership to plant beautiful eucalyptus trees (which the Syrians liked but which only grew in Israel) around their military bases to camouflage them. But of course, he was leaking information to the Israeli army, so they immediately knew that wherever they saw eucalyptus trees there was a military base. So, that was as good as painting targets for Israel’s bombers when the war started. Isn’t that the kind of thing you only read in cartoons?
Another interesting fact that served as a fairly stern reality check. Evidently, there are areas of the Golan Heights that still have mines in them. Uh … not cool … staying on the bus.
BTW, our tour guide obviously has no love at all for the UN, and neither do many of the other guides, as I understand it. However, he loved the United States, and claims that most Israelis do too. Makes sense, but it’s nice to hear. I think it’s also important to point out that the instruction / information we were receiving with regard to these conflicts and the motives behind them were distinctly Israeli. Nowhere in this picture is anyone expecting to get an unbiased view.
Tel Megiddo November 8, 2009
Posted by Jeff Block in Bible Stories, Food, Philosophy and Religion, Travel.Tags: archeology, Armageddon, Israel, Megiddo, The Bible, Valley of Jezreel
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Megiddo is an area at the other end of the Valley of Jezreel from Mount Carmel. The word “tel” is Hebrew for “hill”. This is a high hill overlooking the Valley of Armageddon, a word derived from the word “Megiddo”. There we saw an archeological site which revealed 26 layers of history dating back to 4,000 BC. To give perspective, King David’s reign in the golden age of Israel was layer 16.
We saw the ruins of several cities which had been built on top of each other. One of the most amazing layers (can’t remember who built this) involved a somewhat unique system used to bring fresh water into the city. A fresh water source existed outside the city walls. They dug a hole about 100 feet deep inside the city, then they dug a tunnel through the rock like 200 feet from the water source to the bottom of the vertical hole, sloping from the source to the hole. Then they camouflaged the entrance to the tunnel.
So, the water flowed down the tunnel, and all they had to do was bucket the water up the vertical hole which was now basically a well. And when enemies besieged the city, they didn’t know this water was accessible to those inside the city, so it made them able to last much longer in the siege. Genius.
The reason so many layers existed here was that this is some of the most contested land in the whole world. It is so highly contested because it is at a major cross roads between the Via Mares (the intercontinental bridge between Africa and Europe) and the road through the Golan Heights to Damascus and beyond into Asia. Here’s a picture of the Via Mares of today:

Before embarking to explore any of this, though, we sat down for lunch. It was awesome. Pita with several kinds of meats and veggies. Simple, but I absolutely loved it. So far the food has been absolutely outstanding on this trip.